«Giacomo Neri... has beaten the French of Bordeaux, humiliated the rampant Americans and brought big and pretentious Italian names into line. According to the leading magazine Wine Spectator, his Brunello is an unsurpassable wine. The story of a minimalist farmer.»

by Marisa Fumagalli - From Style - Corriere della Sera, December 2006

«Sometimes I prefer the local markets... ». There’s nothing at all snooty about the producer of the world’s best wine, as classified in the top 100 drawn up by the authoritative American magazine Wine Spectator. Considering the current situation, he keeps a commendably low profile.
But this is just the way Giacomo Neri is at 41 years old. We met at his estate in Montalcino, Tuscany, where the stone farmhouse stands as the fulcrum of this small Tuscan estate. The barn has been transformed into simple guest quarters and the new cellar is practically invisible. It’s a world apart from certain cathedrals “designed” by great architects. «We decided to do things differently”, minimises Mr. Giacomo.
Anyway, his Brunello Tenuta Nuova 2001 Casanova di Neri occupies first place, leaving other foreign wines at the post. «When the name of my wine was published in the newspapers after winning the award, I was overwhelmed by compliments and orders» says Neri. «The problem is that I couldn’t and still can’t satisfy the demand. Almost all the 50,000 bottles of Tenuta Nuova 2001 have already been sold». In short, we have virtually nothing left.
«Our pricelist hasn’t changed» explains Neri «but the mark-ups have rocketed». This is what happens when a product becomes a must. Accompanying a meal with a bottle of Tenuta Nuova 2001 can now cost between 100 and 200 euros or more, depending on the «style» of the restaurant owner. Compared to aristocracy of other Montalcino producers, Neri’s history is quite recent. It begins with Giovanni, Giacomo’s father, a dealer in cereals, decided to invest in a farming estate in the 1970s: the first Brunello was bottled in 1978.
The decision paid off in 1987, when it was awarded a gold medal at the Bordeaux Expo. Giacomo, an agrarian expert, joined his father in the business and when Giovanni died prematurely in 1991, his son inherited the family estate. Since then, things have escalated, with the acquisition of more vineyards and recognition. From the initial quantity of 30,000 bottles, Casanova di Neri now produces 250,000 with a turnover of three million euros.
What are the characteristics of the world’s best wine? «It has balance and structure» explains Neri «with the scent of Mediterranean scrub. I like to compare it to a beautiful girl who still has to reach her peak. Take my advice: wait and drink it in 2015». Tenuta Nuova is vinified with select Sangiovese grapes and aged in oak barrels for 24-30 months, followed by a year of bottle ageing. So are you pro barrique? «Wood improves wine, but it has to stabilise it, not aromatise it». As regards the dispute between Barolo and Brunello, Neri is impartial: «They are Italian jewels».